After a 9.5 mile hike in the sun with little shade, I get to Belorado and take a private room at a Casa Rural. When I can finally handle walking again, I go to the town square and here comes…

I’m the first to arrive at today’s hostel inside a 14th century church and monastery. I stake out my bed for the night, putting my sleeping bag liner over a thin pad among several lined up in a loft of…

It’s late morning when I reach Santo Domingo and leave the dirt roads to navigate the hot cement of bustling city sidewalks. I see a sandwich board sign announcing hamburger plate specials just ahead. How wonderful to find a good…

After some internal conflict and debate, I decide to take the bus again. Today I’ll ride 18 miles to Najera. What a beautiful, glorious ride! I’m on a modern commercial bus with comfortable seats and air conditioning. I know I’ve…

Pilgrimage . . . This doesn’t seem like a pilgrimage now that I’ve checked into a nice hotel room in this big city. I wrestle with the idea that maybe it’s a mistake to stay here. The comfort with real…

Then I meet John and Vicki from Ireland. Hearing about my Achilles heel struggles, Vicki introduces me to another woman at a nearby table who’s also having trouble walking. The woman shares that she walks part way and then takes…