The scenery has changed now. The road is often covered by shade trees, and cool breezes occasionally blow. Not always, but often enough to feel encouraged. After another night, I realize I haven’t gotten rid of bed bugs. I have…

I arrive at my next stop and spend the afternoon at the laundromat, trying to get rid of bed bugs. Yes, bed bugs! Then while laying on my bed at the hostel, Patrick, a solo traveler from the UK, comes…

The descent from El Acebo is the scariest, the most difficult, I’ve ever encountered. It’s very steep, over loose stone in some places. Every muscle in my body is being called into play. If I could turn around and go…

              Amy and I walk to the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) together. It’s a tall wooden pole topped by an iron cross. Pilgrims usually bring a stone from home to leave there to…

I pay extra for a private room tonight, rather than share the dormitory setting with fellow pilgrims. I rationalize the room is worth the extra cost because I will likely be crying tonight in anticipation of tomorrow. That’s when I’ll…

I get off the bus in Astorga and see that it has some structures designed by the Spanish architect Antonio Gaudi whose work I adore.  The Episcopal Palace of Astorga was built in the late 1800s. This building is like…