I get off the bus in Astorga and see that it has some structures designed by the Spanish architect Antonio Gaudi whose work I adore. The Episcopal Palace of Astorga was built in the late 1800s. This building is like…
“Keep walking and your heart will catch up.” That’s the advice I gave to someone this week and take it for myself now. Except today that means not walking, but taking the bus again. I’m running out of time and…
My comfy private room is so nice. The bed is comfortable and an open window lets in a cool breeze across my bed. My blister has healed and I feel good. I decide to take another day and stay here…
After a 9.5 mile hike in the sun with little shade, I get to Belorado and take a private room at a Casa Rural. When I can finally handle walking again, I go to the town square and here comes…
I’m the first to arrive at today’s hostel inside a 14th century church and monastery. I stake out my bed for the night, putting my sleeping bag liner over a thin pad among several lined up in a loft of…
It’s late morning when I reach Santo Domingo and leave the dirt roads to navigate the hot cement of bustling city sidewalks. I see a sandwich board sign announcing hamburger plate specials just ahead. How wonderful to find a good…
After some internal conflict and debate, I decide to take the bus again. Today I’ll ride 18 miles to Najera. What a beautiful, glorious ride! I’m on a modern commercial bus with comfortable seats and air conditioning. I know I’ve…
Pilgrimage . . . This doesn’t seem like a pilgrimage now that I’ve checked into a nice hotel room in this big city. I wrestle with the idea that maybe it’s a mistake to stay here. The comfort with real…
Then I meet John and Vicki from Ireland. Hearing about my Achilles heel struggles, Vicki introduces me to another woman at a nearby table who’s also having trouble walking. The woman shares that she walks part way and then takes…
I’m not in control. Nope. The Camino is in charge, leading me step by step, moment by moment. I don’t know what’s ahead. I just follow the yellow arrows marking the way, up and down, over and under, on smooth…